Well, however you count it: days, miles, kilometers or ending point I am definitely over half way. I plan to walk the extra three days after Santiago to the ocean if I still feel as good as I do now. I walked from Bercianos del real Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas. It was 26 k and a warm day so I started early again and it was a nice flat walk, but did get hot so time to put my feet up and rest at the Albergue a while. I am already starting to feel sad that my days on the Camino are numbered so I think I will slow down a bit and just walk to Leon tomorrow and then follow the schedule that they gave me on day one at the Pilgrim office for days 22 to 34 to Santiago. People that have walked before tell me that everyone cries when they walk into Santiago. I am beginning to think they be tears of sadness that the journey is ending rather than happiness for the destination.

Had a nice evening visiting with Camino friends. Said goodbye to some pilgrims that I did not think I would see again, as we were walking different distances, but like the characters in Voltaire’s Candice pilgrims reappear on the Camino. Annika and I are sharing a nice room with two others and our own bath. We walked nearly 24 k by 11am today and decided that was good enough for today. We are at Bercianos del real Camino tonight. It was to be a warm day so I got up early and enjoyed watching the world wake as I started out at 5:45. Have I mentioned how amazing the yellow flowers smell along the road? I peak in the cemeteries I walk by. Most have a wall and a locked gait like the photo below. I was intrigued by the two statues facing each other on either side of the road but when I got closer I saw that one was facing left and one facing right like they were refusing to look at each other.

Last night I attended mass in Carrion de Los Condes. It was in Spanish, of course, but I enjoy mass in other languages. I find that the love and hope in the message transcends language and if there is any negativity or judgement it goes over my head. The nuns sang and it was lovely. There were many pilgrims at mass and at the end the priest invited us up to the alter for a blessing. He asked is anyone here from Brazil, UK, Japan, USA, etc… I think the 35 of us represented about 20 countries. He said that they had been blessing pilgrims there for eight centuries! The nuns gave us each a paper star.

Today I walked 26k and it was pretty warm. There were not many towns so I was glad I had stocked up on fruit, cheese and a boccadilla from the market. When I got to Terradillos de Los Templarios the two albergues were full. I asked if there was an alternative to walking another 6k and she said for 8 euro I could sleep on a mattress on the floor of the massage room. Massage room??? For those of you disappointed that I did not take the private room yesterday you will be happy to hear that I am splurging on a 30 euro 60 minute massage!

I ate the pilgrim meal last night: choice of lentil or squash soup, salad, chicken, wine and ice cream bar. Everyone got really excited about the ice cream bars, guess we are all kids. Walked around with Pat, Bill and Karen looking for a restaurant prior to deciding on the pilgrim meal. There were several that we stopped at as we walked around the small nearly deserted town but each said they were “cerrado” and pointed us down the street. Eventually we realized we were being circled back to the original restaurant with the pilgrim meal where a local told us “walk around and ask all you want but this is the only restaurant open tonight!”.

Another lovely day walking today! Weather was perfect again! Terrain was pretty flat and not as scenic but that did not stop me from taking lots of pictures. I am staying at Santa Clara monastery in Carrion de Los Condes tonight. I could have had a private room and bath for 25 euro or my usual bed for 7. I hesitated a really long time but took the bed. I told Frederick, who was checking in at the same time that the room was tempting and he said “No, now we are Pilgrims”.

Ate dinner in Hontanas last night with Janet and Kay from Australia. The albergue turned on lights and music and came in saying “Good morning, Good morning” at 6ish this morning so I didn’t have to pack up in the dark. I must have been sleepy when I left, though, as I took a hiking pole that wasn’t mine. There were three poles that were the same brand and I just grabbed the two that were together and because I was just carrying them in my hand I didn’t realize one was shorter until I went to use them. They are adjustable so once I find someone with a strong enough grip I’ll be ok.

Hiked about 28k from Hontanas to Boadilla today. I’m on the mesita and was warned that this is hard, hot, flat and boring. I didn’t find any of that to be true. I am staying in the Municipal Albergue for 5 euro tonight.

Fantastic evening in Burgos last night eating Tapas and cheesecake with Frederick and Tony. Tony (from California) is just starting her Camino in Burgos. Frederick (from France) stated his 1000 k ago in the middle of France!

I started early (6:30) and walked 32 k today (my longest so far). There were several tiny towns that I passed through to get up to the Meseta. The Meseta is thought by many as being the hardest on the Camino as it is desert- hot and flat. I am good with hot and flat so no worries there! Frederick caught up with me and we walked the last 10 k into Hontanas. I like to walk alone but the time always goes faster when I am walking with someone. He slowed his pace to walk with me. The first albergue was full but the second had beds. I wasn’t too excited about the pilgrim meal tonight- pork. So I think I will just eat the cheese, bread, dried fruit and nuts I have in my bag and then walk around and check out the village. There are some Irish guys in my room that are pretty excited that there is an Irish owner of a bar in town that sells Guinness. I said that I don’t like Guinness in the states but love it in Ireland and love Ireland in general. He said ” from all of us in Ireland- thank you!!”.

Short walk from Cardenuela Riopico to Burgos today. Met John after a few kilometers and the 20 k walk went fast as we swapped stories (he was backpacking across New Zealand prior to the Camino). We split up in Burgos as he was going on and I had a late breakfast across from the Municipal Albergue waiting for it to open. Note the photo of all our packs in a queue. Many people I have met prior are staying here for the night. It is a very nice albergue and only 6 euro (thanks for the tip Bruna!). The cathedral here is astonishing!

Anika (from Sweden) and I ate the best meal I have had on The Camino at San Anton Abad Albergue. It was the pilgrim meal for 13 euro and had four or five choices for each course. I had salad, vegetable lasagna, cod in tomato sauce with fries and more salad and tiramisu for desert. The picture I am posting is just the “starter”.

Today I left at about 6:20 and Anika caught up with me when I stopped to eat an apple and an orange for breakfast. She walks faster than me typically but slowed her pace today and walked with me. We walked 29k from Villafranca to Cardenuela Riopico Spain. One of the highlights of the day was walking through Altapuerca (where the famous prehistoric archeological site is).

Had a fun evening in Granon! Lots of singing and laughter at the Albergue! Today I walked the longest so far I think, 29 kilometers. I didn’t set out to walk that far but that is just what happened. It was overcast and I was lucky to have cool weather and no rain. There is a woman that I have seen since the beginning that is here as well and invited me to join her for dinner. Also Melita and some of the others I have been walking with just showed up as well.

Left Najera early (5:45) and it was still a bit dark so I tried out my stocking cap with the headlight built in. I saw lovely colors in the morning sky and it was a perfect morning for a walk. I stopped for breakfast in Azofra and who should walk up but Michoel and Melita! I walked with them the rest of the day to Grañón (about 28 k I think so about 17 miles). We stopped for lunch in Santa Dominingo which is a beautiful little mideival city. Leaving the city Michoel played his ukulele and sang for us. It was surreal. I made a little video but the WiFi has been so weak I cannot upload here. Things age going great! Everyone is so nice!